Southbank’s Hacienda Cocina brings Melbourne Mexican food with heart

Hacienda’s commitment to authenticity goes right down to the very roots of their masa. They take the corn tortillas and tostadas seriously, and it shows: every tortilla is made in-house using the nixtamalisation process—a technique that dates back centuries, involving a lime-water soak that transforms the corn, making it softer, more digestible, and nutrient-rich. This process adds a depth to their tortillas that you’ll taste in every bite, a level of detail that’s often overlooked but makes all the difference when it comes to delivering on tradition.

Chef Ross McCombe, who’s earned his stripes both here and in Mexico City, keeps the menu grounded in classic flavours while throwing in some bold updates. Take the hot oysters with chorizo butter—a smoky, buttery mouthful that brings a new level of richness to a coastal classic, or the bone marrow with salsa verde. The bone marrow is as decadent as it sounds, balancing the unctuous flavour of the marrow with a sharp and bright salsa verde that keeps things from tipping too far into indulgence. If there’s a dish that’ll have you simultaneously picking up your phone to snap a photo and immediately setting it down to dig in, it’s this one.

And then there’s the mole, a dish with a history as intricate as its flavour profile. Hacienda’s rendition uses this ancient sauce to dress up grilled Mulloway, introducing layers of smoky, earthy depth to the delicate fish. It’s a dish that speaks to the essence of Mexican cuisine: layered, bold, and unapologetically nuanced.

Of course, it wouldn’t be a true Mexican dining experience without a solid bar program, and Hacienda doesn’t disappoint. The staff are happy to guide you through their selection of tequilas, mezcals, and agave-based cocktails, but if you’re stumped, the mezcal margarita is a great place to start. The smoky mezcal’s balanced by a hit of citrus, and it’s an ideal pairing for the spices on the table.

Hacienda Cocina Mexicana is a sophisticated take on Mexican dining in a setting that feels like it was made for Melbourne’s food-loving crowd. With views, ambience, and a menu that honours tradition while embracing new ideas, this is the spot for anyone looking to dive deep into authentic Mexican flavours without leaving the city.