Melbourne’s culinary landscape is ever-evolving, and the newest to capture our attention is Lollo. Perched within the W Melbourne, the restaurant welcomes Head Chef Tuan Tran, a culinary artisan whose pedigree includes stints at noteworthy establishments such as Nobu and Koko. Tran brings an intellectual curiosity to his approach, seeing heat not just as a means to an end, but as a transformative element.
The chef's focus is not just on mere spiciness but on the multifaceted ways heat can accentuate flavours. His dedication to the elemental nature of heat is not about excessive spiciness or gratuitous flame. Rather, it's an homage to his Southern Vietnamese roots and a celebration of the multitude of ways heat can artfully intensify a dish.
Tuan Tran's culinary vision is deeply rooted in the aromatic spices and varied heat profiles characteristic of Southern Vietnamese cuisine. This, combined with his commitment to local produce, permits a multi-layered exploration of both Melbourne's and Vietnam’s food culture. Picture a free-ranged chicken breast adorned with a finely crafted spice crust, accompanied by a subtle lemon myrtle emulsion. Vegetables, too, undergo a carefully controlled charring process in a Beech Oven, making them far from mere sides.
Local sourcing isn't a mere trend for Chef Tran. His ongoing dialogues with suppliers exemplify a keen interest in procuring only the most suitable local ingredients for his dishes. This dedication extends from the meats to even the herbs, ensuring that every dish doesn’t just taste like Melbourne—it epitomises it.
Situated above Flinders Lane, Lollo presents an eclectic, modern atmosphere that mirrors the vibrancy of Melbourne's multifaceted culture. The restaurant seems to absorb the kinetic energy from the streets below, offering diners not just a meal, but an experience.
Those who seek a dining experience that transcends mere sustenance should consider Lollo. This isn't a fleeting makeover; it's an ongoing evolution led by a chef whose relationship with heat is both personal and profound. It is through this nuanced interplay of heat and heritage that Chef Tuan Tran is charting a new course for Lollo.