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Atta in Albert Park Perfects the Art of Modern Indian Dining

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On Victoria Avenue in Albert Park, where the sea breeze sneaks between rows of terrace houses, sits Atta. An Indian restaurant that’s as comfortable as it is refined. The space is calm and softly lit, with white linen, neatly pressed uniforms and that quiet sense of confidence that comes from a kitchen that knows exactly who it’s cooking for. It’s elegant without feeling uptight, like a long lunch that decided to stay for dinner.

Inside, the dining room feels warm and intimate, the kind of place that makes you instinctively lower your voice. Sunlight hits the stone-textured walls and wooden ceiling just right, bouncing off cutlery set with precision. It’s not fine dining in the formal sense, but it certainly has the grace of it.

Owners Harry Dhanjal and Brij Patel have created something that feels perfectly tuned to its postcode. It’s Melbourne’s version of modern Indian—smart, flavourful and built for conversation rather than ceremony. You get the sense that Harry’s years behind the pass have taught him restraint, and that Brij, a seasoned front-of-house veteran, has turned that experience into a kind of relaxed choreography.

The golgappa is a fun place to start. Those crisp, puffed orbs filled with spiced potato and chickpeas burst with tamarind and lemon like a tiny edible prank. Then comes the Dirty Samosa, Atta’s showpiece. It looks like something you’d find in a gallery: one samosa lounging on a plate painted with chutneys, chickpea masala scattered with intention. It’s playful, cheeky, and deliciously aware of itself.

The lamb, cooked for eight hours until it’s barely holding itself together, is presented under a wisp of smoke that clears to reveal a plate full of comfort and control. It’s tender, herby and beautifully balanced by a cool mint chutney and soft vegetables.

Then comes the familiar trio that every Indian restaurant claims, but few perfect: butter chickengarlic naan and saffron rice. Atta’s version is what happens when you give a classic the attention it’s always deserved. The butter chicken sauce is glossy and spiced just right, rich but never heavy. The naan is pillowy and hot, brushed with enough garlic butter to make you order another basket without shame. The rice is golden and aromatic, light enough to float.

For dessert, the pistachio kulfi arrives with a honeyed biscuit shaped like India, a subtle wink to nostalgia that finishes the meal on a thoughtful note.

Atta isn’t chasing the fine-dining label. It’s doing something more interesting refining Indian flavours for an Albert Park state of mind. Think of it as your local Indian restaurant that grew up, learned to use linen, and still knows how to have a good time.

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